Finally! Episode 5 of the Ted’s Fishroom series. Sorry to take so long, but the trip to Gabon and subsequent trips all over the place put me behind in making videos. This installment is about building racks for aquariums. I use three different types of racks: wood, commercial shelving and angle-iron aquarium stands. The video talks about each briefly and then goes into detail about how to build a basic stand with dado joints. One thing I mention is the cost effectiveness of wood stands. I priced a 24″ metal aquarium stand this week, and was quoted $65.99 (retail). The stand that you will see me make in the video has a total cost of $7.35 in materials…. enjoy.
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Ted this really cool video. Its very easy for everyone to understand and build a simple and strong stand. Thanks
When you gonna make the next one
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Thank you for the great information on how to build wooden stands for a fish room. I have been looking for replacement stands [one's that look prettier anyway] for my fry tanks. I think I will try your instructions.
i was wondering how to design a stand that would be 4-40 breeder tanks 2 in each row. i need the 1st row of 2 breeders at 28″ from the ground. this is for a pet store im designing going to have 52- 40 breeders 2 rows high.
I assume that you are going to have long rows of tanks (52/4 = 13 racks)… If you want to be able to move the racks around, building little 4-tank racks is a good idea. Basic plan is the same. Dado cut the vertical supports to hold the rails that the tanks will sit on. 2×4 is plenty strong. A 6-foot rail (to fit two 40 br) may bow a bit, so you might want to include a center vertical between the tanks in front and back… so six verticals, four rails to make ten boards total for each rack. If I were lining a wall with 40 br and had no plans to move the racks, I would build a single long unit using 4 x 4 dado cut verticals every three tanks and dado cut 2×4 verticals between the tank ends not next two the 4×4 risers. Then use 10 foot 2 x 4 rails that would meet end to end at the 4×4 risers (2″ of each rail abutting in the dado). This gives enough space to set 3 40br between each 4×4 vertical, and will have about 28″ of space you would lose building 13 individual racks and setting them in a long row.
hey ted do you have any videos or pics about building the water changer.
thanks a bunch.
I do not use an automated water changer, so I am not sure what water changer you are referring to. Most systems either use drilled tanks with bulkheads as outlets for water that rises above the outlet. Water is then added to the aquarium through a separate piping system. As water is added to the tank (usually slightly cooler than tank water so it sinks), the water level rises and overflows out the outlet. Automation can be provided by using solenoid valves and a landscape sprinkler timer to turn the solenoid on and off.
hi excellent video! were in the process of expanding our breeding/fish room setup and were thinking of either industrial steel racks or wooden ones, is it worth putting shelving or just extra support for the tanks inbetween each level?
Tanks with bottom rims only need support on their edges, and really only the corners. I have seen plenty of excellent racks with only one set of parallel edges on rails. I would not waste the money on metal racks when wood will do. Plus, you can cut wood to whatever length you need, rather than have to adjust to what a metal rack is. Plus, metal rusts!
Thanks for that will be going with your design we are looking to do 3 levels though
Bottom – sump
1st 3ft tank
2nd 3 ft tank
And top for storage
4×4 would be better?
2×4 is fine. If 4×4 for legs makes you feel better, it will just make the rack stronger.
Great video!!! I am considering a similar project. I am torn between the drilled tank/bulkhead system or using individual sponge filters and weekly water changes. The only reason that I considering this system is disease. The drilled tank/bulkhead system is much more efficient and easier to maintain, but the only downside is if one fish get some sick they can all potentially get it sick. It appears that you have sponges. What system do you use? Why? And how do you control/reduce the risk of disease?? Thanks in advance.
A drilled tank with bulkhead system does not mean that the tank has to be on a central filtration system. I plan to drill all my tanks so I can have flow-through (automated) water changing. I will still use the mat wall filters.
By far one of the most fundamentally helpful and courage-inspiring videos I’ve seen. Ted, yes, sometimes it just takes someone SHOWING YOU to really get you over the intimidation of powertools combined with a lack of carpentry experience. No longer. I know this has helped more than one fellow aquarist. A great contribution to the hobby. Thanks!
This page – Aquarium Racks in a Fish Room | Ted’s Fishroom really has all the information and facts I wanted about this subject and didn’t know who to ask.
hi ted,my question is ,I want to build a rack for a 75 and a 50 side by side and put two 55g in top of the 75and50 using 2x5planks as legs as well as support of the tanks,do you think that will be good enough. thanks
Hi Jose,
Because the tanks are not the same width, you are building a ‘stair step’ rack. These are nice because you are setting the thinner tanks on top back from the front edge of the bottom tanks, so you can make the distance between the top of the bottom tanks and the bottom of the upper rail smaller and still be able to get into the bottom tanks. The only problem (not a big deal) is that the 75 and 50 are combined 1 foot shorter than the two 55′s on top. What I would do is build the rack to hold two 75′s on the bottom and put the 50 in the center of one of the spaces. Someday you may elect to trade it out for another 75. What is important is that there is a center support in the middle of your 8-ft long rails. Do not forget to make the length of the rails the total length of each tank (48″ x 2) plus the width of each riser (leg). Since you will have three legs on each rail, you will need to add an additional 6 inches… so 48″ + 48″ + 6″ = 102″. Make sure that you are measuring the actual length of the tanks on the outside edges of the trim.